The Do-It-Yourself Bra Fitting Guide
January 8, 2008 by Danae
Here at Knickers we do bra “street-fittings” all the time (and bar-fittings, and bus-fittings…), and have learned how to fit a bra without worrying with measurements and calculators. To help you find your perfect size this new year, we’ve condensed our bra-fitting technique into a handy guide you can use yourself:
Do-it-yourself Bra Fitting
Pick your bra type
Before you start sizing, you need a good idea of what kind of bra you’re looking for – do you want a new everyday bra to wear to work? Do you need a bra for party dresses? We’ve broken down some common bra types by the occasion you might want them for:
- Parties, dressing up and going out: You need a good multifunction bra, which will let you swap between halterneck, strapless, and a regular style. If you don’t typically wear halterneck/strapless styles, a plunge bra is a great way to wear low-cut tops without showing any bra.
- Everyday / Work: A traditional full-cup bra, maybe with a moulded cup will disappear under your work clothes and will provide maximum support.
- Date night: Depending on your taste and cup size, a balconette or plunge bra will be perfect. Balconette is great to wear with a square or round neck to lift the breasts overall (think Jane Austen boobs), and plunge is great for low or v-necks.
Generally, balconette bras are better suited to smaller-cup sizes (DD and below), while full-cup and plunge are perfect for larger-cup sizes. (Editor’s note — There are exceptions to this rule — the balconette shape has been beautifully adapted for larger cup sizes by Miss Mandalay, Freya and Mimi Holliday to name a few). Once you’ve picked your bra style, you’re ready to size!
Bra Style Guide
How do you tell the difference between bras in the store? Each bra will be labeled with its style (multi-way/multifunction, plunge/push-up, full-cup and shelf/balconette) or you can compare the shape to the examples given below:
(all photos from Figleaves.com)
Find your test bra size
Now that you know what bra you want, you can start your DIY Bra Sizing. But don’t go looking for your measuring tape! Measuring might feel accurate, but thanks to the sheer variety of body shapes/manufacturer sizes/bra styles, measuring is often wildly innacurate for bra sizing (i’ve been told i was a 42D when i’m a 36G!). We prefer to take a much more common sense, DIY approach to bra sizing: all you need is your current bra size and a little bit of trial and error.
No measuring-tape bra sizing
- Test your band size – Reach around and pull your bra band away from your back – is it loose (more than an inch or so from your back)? If so, your band size might be too big. If it’s really loose, subtract two band sizes (always subtract by two, e.g., 38 to 34), if it’s just a little loose, subtract one band size (38 to 36). If you’re not really sure, get someone to try a playground bra-snapping on you. If it hurts, your band size is probably too big.
- Test your cup size – Feel under your arm for your bra’s underwire. Is the underwire directly below your armpit, or is there breast tissue poking out beyond the underwire?
Now check your underwires at the front of the bra – do they lie flat against your skin, or do they stick out? If there is breast tissue beyond the underwire and your underwire isn’t flat, try adding two cup sizes (e.g. D to F). If the underwire is only wrong in one place, add one cup size (e.g. D to E) - Do the math – Take your current bra size, do your additions/subtractions from Steps 1 and 2, and that’s your new bra size to test. Don’t panic if your test size sounds too big/weird/no-way-am-i-that-size/am-i-a-mutant. Just trust us for now – you’ll be testing this size in the changing room!
Time to go shopping!
Once you’ve got a new bra size to test out, pick your bra style using the guide above and grab your new size in the store. Also grab some sizes around the test size, so if you were a 36C and you’re testing out a 32E, also grab a 30F and a 34DD for a little experimentation.
Where to shop
If you can’t find the sizes you need, don’t just make do and fudge the sizes, make an effort to find a good bra store (it will pay off in the long run!). U.S. readers should try higher-end department stores like Nordstroms, Macy’s, or Dillards, and UK readers should try Bravissimo, M&S, Frasers, or local boutiques. Try to avoid the “usual suspects” lingerie stores like Victoria’s Secret and La Senza, as they won’t have the variety in sizes and styles that you’ll need – take this opportunity to find a new lingerie retailer!
The changing room checklist
Once you have your test bra and a few variants, you’re ready to try them all out. Here is a simple changing room checklist for making sure your new bra fits:
Hook the bra on your middle hook (or the second one) – you need your band to be snug and tight, but also need an idea of how the bra will feel once the bra loses some elasticity. With the middle hook, you’ll get an idea of the looser fit, but can always swap to the first hook if you need it when the bra starts to age.
Keep your straps loose – too many women rely on the straps for support in their bra, but the band should be giving support, not the straps. Pull out the straps so they sit comfortably but aren’t bearing any real weight, and you’ll get a true idea of how the bra supports you.
Make sure your bridge is lying flat on your sternum — poke the piece of fabric between your cups (that’s the bridge), does it lie flat or does your whole bra move when you poke it? If it’s not lying flat, try going up a cup size.
Lean over and pull the girls in – this is the part where people start thinking we’re crazy. Seriously, it works – lean over so your breasts are pointing to the floor, reach into the cup and pull your breasts into the cup. Now stand back up, and marvel at your rack! If you see a bit of flesh hanging over the top of the cup, that’s a sign that you’re either wearing the wrong style (balconette or half-cup instead of full), or your cup size is too small.
Jump up and down – we call this the Jiggle Test, and it’s great for larger-cup women especially. Do the girls stay in place when you hop up and down a few times? If so, you’re doing well. If your breasts start bouncing like crazy you’ve probably got a band size too large, and if you get a lot of flesh wiggle on the top of your boob, your cup size could be too small, or you should try a fuller cup.
Put a tight tee-shirt on – we always wear or bring a snug, thin little tee with us for bra shopping, so we can see the shape bras give us – once you’ve pulled the girls in, slip on your tee and check out the general shape/lift. Is there not enough lift? Try a smaller band size (and maybe size up a cup to compensate). Are there bumps around the cups? Try a bigger cup size.
Try on all three of your test bras (the original test size and the two variants) and pay attention to how much lift you get, how flat the bridge lies, and how snug your band is against your back. Then, compare these with the bra size you’ve been wearing. With a little trial and error, you should be able to narrow down your size pretty quickly.
If none of the bras feel or look right, try a different style of bra (full-cup is a great default style) with your test sizes and repeat the checklist. Keep experimenting until you feel well-supported!
Your New Size
Bra-sizing isn’t an exact affair – there are simply too many manufacturers, sizing standards, body shapes, and styles for any woman to be one final size. Your “new” size won’t be the same in every brand, and may not even be the same between different styles in the same brand (that’s why we made you pick at the beginning). The trick is to find a good base size, then adjust that size as required by using the criteria above.
This whole process may take a little time, but will be worth it. You can do this process in a one-day blitz, or can simply pay attention to how different bras fit over time and work your size out gradually. Either way, you’ll soon start to learn your size range for your favourite brands and styles, and after a bit more experimentation, you’ll have a whole range of bras that fit you, not a bra size!
For more information on bra sizing, check out our Top Five Bra-Sizing Myths.
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First– Thank you for not repeating the same lame, inaccurate bra fitting method that everyone else spouts. You know: the one that starts with measuring your ribcage and adding five to the inch measurement.
Second– This may not be the forum, but here’s my bra soapbox issue, and I hope I can describe it in a way that makes sense:
Standardized ribcage proportions.
I have (proportionately) a ribcage that is a bit narrower and deeper than the standard. A 36 fits across the front with the underwires landing in the right place. I actually need the full circumference of a 38, but then the underwires land way at the back of the armpit (i.e.– the cup extends around the sides.) This is uncomfortable and also unflattering, as the cup takes the breast with it as it goes around the side. Everything is squished, and the extra flesh at the side pushes the underwire outward. Ouch.
What I usually end up doing is getting a 36 and using a bra extender, but then the straps sit too far apart on my back and are prone to fall off the shoulders a lot.
Eventually I will probably end up taking apart a good bra, making an adjusted pattern, and constructing my own bras. But I sure wish I didn’t have to.
“There are exceptions to this rule — the balconette shape has been beautifully adapted for larger cup sizes by Miss Mandalay, Freya and Mimi Holliday to name a few). Once you’ve picked your bra style, you’re ready to size!”
wow those stores have awesome bras.. Is there any bra companies like that, that sell 40+ band sizes. I wear a 44D, it’s so hard to find pretty and colorful bras… I wish I was only a 36D and could shop at that Mandalays’ but by the time I lose the weight my cup size will probably be C and no longer D+…
Hi Cindy, Alison and I are very dubious about your size- we’re in Paris right now but will drop you an email to explain in a few days
My band keeps sliding up and up as the day goes on and the girls go down and down. I tried tightening the bands, but it just made it worse. Now, after trying your 'pull it out behind you' test, I find that I can pull out the band at least 3 inches from my back, meaning the band is definitely way too big! And this is in a bra that I was fitted for by JC Penneys. I am definitely going out this weekend and find the right bra. No more listening to badly informed salespeople.
im trying to find bras that have a band size of 46 i just found out im not a dd as i thought but just a d. i want to buy some sexy bras to spice up my marraige any suggestions?
very nice article, very informative, DIY indeed, this would help many women on how to choose bras that fits them well.
Hi, I love this article. As you guessed it I am having issues with bras, really always have. The one big issue I have that no one seems to know how to fix is I get pressure lines under my girls. It digs in so much sum times it causes real pain that I have to take off the bra and go with out one. We have tried making the band size longer but then it still happens and the bra is to loose by even your standards. Please Help!
I just really need something that will be comfortable all day.
LOVED your article! So glad that you're commenting on how bra measurement is not an exact science! GREAT part about the cup measurement! That is the biggest issue women have in getting a proper fit — the underwire not fitting the entire width of the breast. I had the best bra fitting without a tape measure at Rigby & Peller in London, where you stand bare breasted and they tell you your bra size.
Since I specialize in small busted women's bras and petites, I've noticed that the fullness of breast tissue affects the kind of bras needed for the desired outcome (cleavage, no cleavage, etc.). If you'd like to read more on breast tissue, breast shape affecting bra size or Rigby & Peller, go here: http://evesapples.blogspot.com/2010/09/common-bra…. I hope this helps!
Wonderful post and love that you're going out there with bra fittings! Great job!!!
Hi this is all really helpful. But, my cup size is still wrong. I did what you said here, and my cup size is too big for a DD and too little for a D. I did the lean over and pull in, and it helped some, I did the jump and down and they really stay in place very good. I have such a hard time with this. If I resort to a D then my boobs are always popping out. If I resort to a DD then I have wrinkles that look hideous. PLEASE HELP ME.
Nordstrom Rack is a great place to shop for bras. You get a broad range of sizes and styles at a quarter of the price as you would at Nordstrom's.
This is really helpfull article. i found my size easly with this article thanks
Love it! If only I had this on hand before I went through my own bra fitting hell (although I got a pretty funny story out of it, or should I say, all of them). Love the post! http://aemayer.com/blog/2011/08/bra-fittings/
Hope you take a peek at the story. Since you're a bra guru, I think you’ll identify!
Love it! If only I had this on hand before I went through my own bra fitting hell (although I got a pretty funny story out of it, or should I say, all of them). Love the post! http://aemayer.com/blog/2011/08/bra-fittings/
Hope you take a peek at the story. Since you're a bra guru, I think you’ll identify!
Love it! If only I had this on hand before I went through my own bra fitting hell (although I got a pretty funny story out of it, or should I say, all of them). Love the post! http://aemayer.com/blog/2011/08/bra-fittings/
Hope you take a peek at the story. Since you're a bra guru, I think you’ll identify!
Love it! If only I had this on hand before I went through my own bra fitting hell (although I got a pretty funny story out of it, or should I say, all of them). Love the post! http://aemayer.com/blog/2011/08/bra-fittings/
Hope you take a peek at the story. Since you're a bra guru, I think you’ll identify!
Love it! If only I had this on hand before I went through my own bra fitting hell (although I got a pretty funny story out of it, or should I say, all of them). Love the post! http://aemayer.com/blog/2011/08/bra-fittings/
Hope you take a peek at the story. Since you're a bra guru, I think you’ll identify!
Love it! If only I had this on hand before I went through my own bra fitting hell (although I got a pretty funny story out of it, or should I say, all of them). Love the post! http://aemayer.com/blog/2011/08/bra-fittings/
Hope you take a peek at the story. Since you're a bra guru, I think you’ll identify!
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A little late but I see a lot of women who are wearing the correct bra size but if your bra is 2 or 3 years old (less if you wash it frequently) then the elastic could be wearing out giving you an incorrect fit.
This is really helpfull article. i found my size easly with this article thanks
Definitely avoid the 'usual suspects.' I was wearing a 36D for ages, and had all kinds of uncomfortableness . I got fitted at Victoria's Secret (my girlfriends dragged me in). They told me I was about a 36B. No, dearest ladies in pink, I can assure you that these girls are not B's. They shook their heads at me. I've recently started wearing my real size (34E) and it is so much better. I was in that American Denial of anything above a D-cup. But then my busty friend (at 30J), helped me out. Trust me ladies, once you get a proper size, you don't care what it's called. Suddenly my boobs don't sit on my stomach (I am 20 and not fat at all), and it's fabulous.
my husband needs to read this article. last time, the bra which he bought me was definitely too big… or maybe it was some kind of hidden message?
But then my busty friend (at 30J), helped me out cash advance. Trust me ladies, once you get a proper size, you don't care what it's called. Suddenly my boobs don't sit on my stomach (I am 20 and not fat at all), and it's fabulous.
No, dearest ladies in pink, I can assure you that these girls are not B's. They shook their heads at me. I've recently started wearing my real size (34E) and it is so much better. I was in that American Denial of anything above a D-cup, payday loans uk. But then my busty friend (at 30J), helped me out. Trust me ladies, once you get a proper size, you don't care what it's called.
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I have been in a 42 DDD for a few years now I have always wore at least a D all my life, even at 110 lbs,
My problem is all my underwire bras fit fine except they stick way out in the front ( between the cups in the middle) what can I do to change this? I thought I need to look for a bra that has no bow in the middle and look for a more v line style. What do you think? Ms. Ro